Portugal

Travel Story

Embarking on a bicycle journey through Portugal marked the initial phase of our extensive endeavor to traverse Eurasia . Positioned as the westernmost country on our itinerary, Portugal served as the launching point for this grand adventure.

Both Mina and I were novices in exploring the land of Francisco Xavier, entering with an open mind devoid of preconceptions or specific expectations. For Mina, Portugal held a unique significance in Japan’s history, as it had been among the select few permitted to trade with the Japanese over many centuries. As for me, it was the nation responsible for introducing the celebrated pasteis de nata to South East Asia and Oceania.

Portugal, however, surpassed our initial understanding, captivating us with its breathtaking landscapes, warm-hearted people, delectable cuisine, diverse beverages, and unpredictable yet delightful weather. Consequently, our stay in the country extended beyond our original plans, as Portugal unfolded its wonders, far exceeding the limited knowledge we initially possessed.

Overall feel

What we appreciate

• Sunny weather
• Fierce Atlantic waves
• Dramatic mountains and cliffs
• Coffee times
• The people

What we dislike

• Cobble-stoned roads
• Steep ups and downs
• Strong headwind

In details

Stats

• Way of travelling: Cycling
• Starting date: June 15, 2023
• Duration: 30 days
• Distance: 1,182 km

Crossing the border

Crossing the border between Spain and Portugal consisted in crossing the Rio Guadiana by ferry. We did not get checked by any border officer.

Fab 🇫🇷

As a French national, you can of course stay as long as you want in Portugal.

Mina 🇯🇵

Mina had a partner visa which allowed her to stay inside the Schengen area for one year.

Otherwise, Japanese passports’ holders can stay 90 days in 6 months inside the Schengen area.

Road condition

Our journey through Portugal unfolded in a meticulously planned route. Beginning in Algarve, the southern region, we pedaled from East to West until Sagres. Then, tracing the Atlantic coastline, we headed North to Porto. From there, our route took a slight inland detour to Vila Real before exiting the country via the ecovia do Tamega e Corgo, concluding our cycling adventure in the municipality of Chaves.

Navigating Portugal, we quickly recognized the undeniable topography of the country, characterized by rolling hills that presented countless ascents and descents. Given our goal to traverse the nation from one end to the other, these undulations were an inevitable part of our journey.

As cyclists seeking efficient connections between towns, we often relied on the national roads, identifiable by codes starting with the letter “N” followed by a number (such as the “N2”). While these well-maintained roads offered smoother climbs compared to alternative routes, they occasionally posed challenges with their narrow and bustling nature. However, the congestion never reached a point where it compromised our safety.

Another option at our disposal was the ecovia, also known as ecopista or cyclopista. Frequently repurposed railways, these roads provided a safer passage designed explicitly for pedestrians and cyclists. Despite their safety benefits, many were either incomplete or still under construction, and information regarding their accessibility and condition was often scarce online and virtually nonexistent at local i-sites.

The flexibility of crafting our own route by navigating side streets and local roads presented itself as the third option. These less-traveled paths offered solitude outside major cities and provided a closer connection to scenic locales. However, their unpredictable conditions ranged from perfectly smooth tar to rocky gravel within a mere ten kilometers. Additionally, the prevalence of cobble-stoned roads, a distinctive Portuguese feature, proved to be challenging for our bike’s bearings and bolts.

Accommodations

We did not stay or even search any accommodation in Portugal. We are literally unable to provide any information on this matter.

Freedom camping

Freedom camping became an effortless and enjoyable experience, reaching new levels of ease and comfort. Optimal locations for this purpose were the public picnic areas situated just beyond the villages, striking a perfect balance between proximity to the centers and a serene atmosphere. These areas typically offered benches, tables, running water, rubbish bins, and designated BBQ corners. Notably, these tranquil spots remained cool and shaded most of the time, a valuable attribute during the scorching summer months when temperatures soared above 35°C.

In addition to these well-appointed areas, we occasionally chose to set up our tent on beaches, by riversides, or around picturesque lakes, seizing the opportunity to embrace different scenic backdrops.

In the rare instances where finding suitable tent sites posed a challenge, we took the initiative to approach locals. On these few occasions, we sought permission to camp within their fields, a request they invariably welcomed without hesitation. This collaborative spirit with the locals added a unique and heartening dimension to our camping experience.

Facilities

During our visit, Portugal showcased a commendable commitment to promoting ecotourism, evident in the construction and refurbishment of numerous tracks that granted us free access to the splendors of national parks. The opportunity to marvel at the breathtaking natural scenery without incurring any costs was truly appreciated.

Beyond the captivating landscapes, Portugal provided all the essential elements for a premium cycling tour experience. Easily accessible and impeccably clean bathrooms, water taps delivering fresh and flavorful water at high pressure, and an abundance of cafés, restaurants, grocery stores, and supermarkets offering quality products were integral to our journey.

For the tech-savvy among us, Free Wi-Fi hotspots generously provided by supermarkets, petrol stations, and select city centers facilitated seamless connectivity throughout our travels.

Navigating payment methods was remarkably convenient, with debit card acceptance for our purchases being the norm around ninety percent of the time. We reserved our cash exclusively for the charming fruit and vegetable stalls lining the roadside.

While our cycling adventure did encounter more mechanical hiccups than anticipated, leading us to frequent bike shops, there was a silver lining. These visits unveiled the remarkable professionalism of Portuguese bike mechanics. Patient and possessing an excellent grasp of their craft, they would skillfully diagnose issues upon sight, proceeding with careful repairs or, when necessary, recommending a peer better suited for the task. This unexpected aspect added a unique and positive dimension to our exploration of the country.

Communication with the locals

Fortuitously for us, the vast majority of the population demonstrated proficiency in either impeccable English or excellent French, and quite possibly a myriad of other languages. For those less versed in these, the melodic tones of the Portuguese language bore a striking resemblance to both French and Spanish, facilitating seamless communication for speakers of Romance languages.

Beyond linguistic ease, the Portuguese people exhibited remarkable mindfulness. They unfailingly acknowledged our presence, exemplified by considerate gestures such as creating ample space for us to navigate through narrow passages. Moreover, their willingness to impart accurate advice and extend helpful assistance added a welcoming dimension to our journey. What made this experience truly exceptional was the delicate balance struck between careful consideration and a liberating, free-spirited approach to societal norms—a testament to the Portuguese knack for harmonizing a vigilant mindset with an open and accepting spirit.

Food

Portuguese culinary prowess shines brightly, particularly in the realm of pastries. Beyond the renowned pasteis de nata, each region boasts its own delectable sweets, seamlessly complementing a steaming cup of coffee. Our culinary exploration in Algarve led us to a noteworthy discovery—the folar de Olhao, a sweet delicacy generously infused with the warm notes of cinnamon.

In the art of coffee brewing, Portugal is a maestro, offering a dazzling array of a dozen variations for the discerning palate. A handy chart detailing the diverse possibilities proved invaluable in navigating this rich coffee culture.

Refreshing beverages in Portugal are as diverse as they are delightful. Our taste buds reveled in local specialties such as the classic Sagres Beer in Sagres, white and red Port wine in Porto, and Pedras sparkling water sourced directly from the spring in Pedras.

In the savory department, oversized sardines, the versatile and fantastic potato-based dishes (stews, fried, baked, boiled), and the extraordinary francesinha stand out. Resembling a French croque-madame, the francesinha bathed in a savory sauce surprises with its delicate and delicious taste, despite its unconventional appearance.

On the whole, Portuguese cuisine, though seemingly uncomplicated, dazzles the palate with its wonderful flavors, owing much to the use of fresh and aromatic ingredients. Each dish is a testament to the culinary finesse that elevates simplicity to an exquisite art form.

Vegetarian friendly:

⭐⭐⭐☆☆

The traditional Portuguese diet, regrettably, doesn’t align seamlessly with what one might consider vegetarian-friendly. In tourist hubs, limited vegetarian options were occasionally presented on the menu. However, in other locales, we found it necessary to engage with the staff directly, kindly requesting their assistance in crafting a special vegetarian meal tailored to our dietary preferences.

What we eat:

• Local rice
• Tomatoes
• Potatoes
• Cucumbers
• Watermelons
• Olive oil
• Pasteis de nata
• Salame
• Coffee

⭐ Fab's favourite:

Sical Espresso Coffee, expertly crafted and richly aromatic coffee, offering a delightful blend of quality beans with a distinct and satisfying taste.

⭐ Mina's favourite:

Folar de Olhao, a sweet delicacy from the Algarve region, characterized by its luscious flavor infused with a generous amount of cinnamon.

5 memorable places

Cape Saint-Vincent, Sagres	The south-westernmost place in Eurasia
Cape Roca	The westernmost place in Eurasia
Porto	Bustling but enjoyable city
Amarante	Old-fashioned city with excellent local sweets
Peniche	Fishermen village with a fantastic view on gigantic waves