Okinawa Islands

Travel Story

Exploring the sunken monument of Yonaguni had been a long-awaited adventure on our bucket list. We had planned this trip at the beginning of our relationship, while we were still in New Zealand. Our plan consisted of island-hopping through the Okinawan islands until we reached our final destination. We routed our journey across Okinawa’s main island, Kumejima, Tonaki, Ishigaki, and finally Yonaguni.

To prepare for this unique experience, we had to consider a few extra precautions. The Yonaguni monument is a massive rock formation located about 30 meters deep under the sea, with strong currents. Despite its ancient city-like shape, it is unclear whether it was built by our ancestors between 2000 and 3000 years ago. If it were, it would be Japan’s Atlantis city.

My partner, Mina, was already a confirmed scuba diver and ready to dive. As for me, I had to start from the bottom and earn two levels on my scuba diving license in just a couple of months. Fortunately, I was able to complete this achievement in New Caledonia, where the weather was ideal for diving.

Our journey was an unforgettable one, one that will forever hold a place in our hearts. For the Okinawan islands left a lasting mark on us, and the memories we made were like precious pearls, to be cherished for eternity.

Overall feel

What we appreciate

• Landscapes
• Laid back atmosphere
• Exotic culture, different from the Japanese mainland

What we dislike

• Poisonous snakes in the bushes
• Unstable weather

In details

Stats

• Way of travelling: Walking and public transports
• Starting date: January 16, 2020
• Duration: 21 days
• Distance: 229 km

Crossing the border

We flew from Tokyo to Naha via a low-cost carrier before connecting to various islands via ferries and domestic flights. Please note that weather conditions can be unpredictable and may affect transport schedules. Additionally, some ferry companies may not offer online booking options, so it is advisable to visit their offices on the day of departure.

Fab 🇫🇷

French passports’ holders can stay 90 days as a visitor in Japan (Okinawan islands included)

Mina 🇯🇵

As a Japanese national, you just need to present your passport for entering Japan. For domestic flights, it is not even required.

Road condition

While the roads are generally well-maintained, it is important to exercise caution when venturing off the tar road. Poisonous snakes often lurk in the shadows, so it is recommended that you use a stick to survey the ground and avoid any unwanted encounters. In the event that you are bitten, it is crucial that you identify the species of snake and seek medical attention immediately. Taking a picture of the culprit can help in identifying the correct antivenom required for treatment. Remember, identification is key to your survival in such a situation.

Accommodations

As a popular tourist destination, Okinawa offers a range of accommodations to suit every budget and preference. However, we found that staying in local guesthouses offered a unique and authentic experience. These guesthouses provide excellent facilities at an affordable price and give you the chance to immerse yourself in the local culture. One of our favorite aspects of staying in a guesthouse was the opportunity to partake in “yuntaku,” a traditional social gathering similar to the French “apéro.” This gave us the chance to interact with locals and learn more about their customs and way of life.

Freedom camping

Please note that our experience of freedom camping in Okinawa was during winter, and the information provided here may not be applicable if you plan to visit during a different season. Nonetheless, we found that freedom camping was not difficult to arrange. In urban areas, we stayed close to parks and road stations, which typically provide shelter and public bathroom facilities. Road stations, or “michi no eki”, are particularly convenient for overnight stays, as they offer a range of amenities.

In more remote areas, we pitched our tent near beaches or community centers. Community centers are well-equipped for a one-night stay, but it’s important to seek permission from the locals beforehand. Please be aware that communicating with locals may be challenging if you do not speak Japanese. When choosing a camping location, we recommend avoiding bushy areas as there may be poisonous snakes hidden there.

Facilities

Facilities in Okinawa are generally of good quality, as one would expect in Japan. Convenience stores are well located throughout the island and offer public bathrooms and hot water for drinking. We found these stores especially useful when we were unable to find a gas canister for our hiking stove elsewhere in Okinawa. However, it’s worth noting that public baths are not as common in Okinawa as they are in other parts of Japan. We had hoped to recommend the public bath on Kumejima, but unfortunately, we found out that it had closed down after our visit to Okinawa.

When it comes to payment methods, cash is the safest and most widely accepted option. While credit cards are accepted at many places, they may not be accepted everywhere, so it’s best to have some cash on hand just in case. If you need to withdraw money, we recommend doing so during normal business hours in downtown areas to avoid extra fees that may be charged for using ATMs outside of working hours. With a little extra planning, managing your budget should not be a problem.

Communication with the locals

The Okinawan people are known for their warmth and hospitality. They have been extremely helpful to us on numerous occasions by providing invaluable advice. It is customary in Okinawan culture to break the ice by sharing alcohol, and we have been graciously invited to partake in this tradition.

While the locals predominantly speak Japanese, you may hear variations in dialects and accents. Communication may prove challenging for non-Japanese speakers, as English is only commonly used near American military bases. Nevertheless, the locals are enthusiastic about engaging with visitors and will make every effort to communicate effectively.

Food

Okinawa boasts a distinctive cuisine that sets it apart from the specialties of the rest of Japan. It showcases notable influences from the United States and Eastern Asia. Throughout our stay, we frequented local shops to order our meals, and we were consistently satisfied. The portions were generously sized, especially compared to the typical Japanese serving sizes.

In remote areas, locating grocery stores can be challenging. Instead, locals often rely on cooperative shops that offer a limited selection of high-quality products and produce. We made an effort to limit our purchases from these cooperatives to avoid depleting the village’s food stocks.

Vegetarian friendly:

⭐⭐⭐☆☆

The cuisine of Okinawa heavily features pork-based dishes, which can make it challenging to find vegetarian options in local shops and restaurants. Even seemingly innocuous items like biscuits may contain pork grease, so it’s crucial to carefully review the list of ingredients before making a purchase.

One of Okinawa’s distinctive specialties is black sugar, or “kokutou,” which involves using cow bones in the sugar processing. However, for vegetarians, there are plenty of other options to enjoy, such as the local tofu and readily available root vegetables.

What we eat:

• Peanuts & soy tofu
• Juicy (pork rice)
• Purple sweet potatoes
• Stir fried goya
• Okinawan Soba
• Fu (wheat gluten)
• Sanpincha (jasmin tea)
• Coffee
• Half-priced bento from the supermarket

⭐ Fab's favourite:

Tofu soup from Tofu Higa, Ishigaki

⭐ Mina's favourite:

Izakaya restaurant in Kumejima with good food and nice owner

5 memorable places

Yonaguni Monument	The Japanese Atlantis City, under the sea
Bade Haus	Hot bath facility using deep sea water, unfortunately closed at the time of writing
Dr Koto’s Clinic	The real movie set used for the Japanese drama of the same name
Mape	Panoramic view from the top of the second highest mountain in Ishigaki
CamCam Guesthouse	Cheap accommodation that will give you a frugal but authentic experience