Living in France - Marseille

Travel Story

In the year 2021, upon completion of our sacred pilgrimage to Santiago, Spain, we embarked on a perilous journey back to France, with nothing but our wits and a sturdy hitchhiking thumb. Our ultimate goal was to return to the land of the rising sun, Japan, by way of Paris. Alas, the dreaded Covid-19 still had a tight grip on the world, making our journey fraught with complications.

Thus, we found ourselves in the charming port city of Marseille, a place we had never before visited. Here, we were compelled to make a detour to the Japanese consulate, in order to secure the necessary documents for our return to Japan. And so it was that we stayed in Marseille for many months, biding our time and engaging in a delightful exchange of labor at a lovely estate.

Yet, fate had a cruel twist in store for us. The news arrived like a thunderbolt: my visa for Japan had been placed on indefinite hold, until the Covid crisis abated - a full year later, as it turned out. Such a dire turn of events forced us to reconsider our options and make a momentous decision: to remain in France and establish a new life there, together.

With a sense of serendipity, we returned to the city that had captured our hearts: Marseille. Though the task of settling in a foreign land proved to be a formidable challenge, fraught with an endless barrage of bureaucratic hurdles, Marseille held a special place in our hearts. Here, we found a glimmer of hope and the possibility of negotiating and smoothing things over, in a city that was brimming with life and vitality.

And so it was that we remained in Marseille for a duration of 16 months, immersing ourselves in the culture and the people, and forging unforgettable memories that we wish to share with you, dear reader, in this account.

Overall feel

Regardig Marseille especially.

What we appreciate

• Marseille’s sunny weather
• Feeling of freedom
• Cosmopolitan city
• Safe
• Conveniently located in the Mediterranean region
• Friendliness of the inhabitants

What we dislike

• Busy and noisy
• The general mess

In details

Travelling and commuting in France

In the vast expanse of France, the options for travel from one place to another are plentiful. Each mode of transportation offers a unique combination of comfort and affordability, perfect for any journey.

Ferries

For those who yearn to cross waters, ferries are often overlooked as a convenient mode of travel. Cyclists in particular find ferries to be a hassle-free solution when transporting their beloved bikes. The journey is comfortable and from the port of Marseille, one can easily reach a variety of destinations such as Corsica, Algeria, and Sardinia. Prices vary depending on the season, so it is recommended to book as soon as possible, lest the fares increase greatly as the departure date approaches.

Planes

Although planes are a swift means of travel for longer distances, we often try to avoid them due to their huge carbon footprint and inconvenience when travelling with bicycles. In addition, reaching the airport can be time-consuming, as can checking in. We reserve air travel for longer distances when time is of the essence. Domestic flights can sometimes be cheaper than trains.

Trains

France boasts a decent train network, though often at a higher cost than other options. Comfort is assured, though we have yet to try transporting bicycles on board. We have heard, however, that it is possible with minimal hassle.

Coaches

For long distances, coaches are the most affordable option, allowing travelers to traverse hundreds of kilometers for just a few euros. Comfort levels vary greatly between each coach, and in peak season, they can be quite packed. If carrying numerous bags, it is wise to embark first. As coaches depend on the road network, delays and traffic jams are common. The main operators in France are Flixbus and Blablabus.

Local transports

Local transports, managed by localities, such as buses, trams, rental bikes, and subways, offer a cost-effective means of travel with a standard fare of around 2 euros for up to 100 kilometers. Although limited in schedule, these modes of transport can be utilized for travel throughout most of France. In Marseille, rental bikes were particularly affordable, costing only 5 euros per year upon our arrival. It is worth noting that employees in France can request their company to refund half of their monthly public transport subscription.

Cabs on demand

Cabs on demand, such as Uber, are convenient for specific situations but are not our preferred method of transportation. These apps are available 24/7 and can even be used to plan a trip for someone else.

Car pooling

Car pooling, a popular practice in France, offers a simple and affordable means of travel. We use blablacar.com , a website that allows us to plan trips with just a few clicks. The driver’s profile can be checked to reduce the risk of an undesirable ride, and car pooling is a great way to meet people and gain insight into places to visit.

Hitchhiking

Finally, hitchhiking, although not as common as it once was, is a personal favorite of ours. While it may take some social skills to approach drivers parked at petrol stations, hitchhiking provides an exciting adventure with each new ride, and the chance to meet fascinating people. Although it was more difficult to find rides in the aftermath of the Covid crisis, our advice is to ask drivers directly, for it is the most effective way.

Settling in Marseille

In France, the process of settling down is no simple feat. Such was our experience, Mina and I. Mina, lacking French citizenship, and myself, registered in the distant land of New Caledonia - a peculiar status, akin to that of an immigrant.

The initial hurdle one must surmount is obtaining a visa - a necessity for entry into France and the Schengen area. As a French national, I faced no significant obstacles, but Mina arrived with a mere working holiday visa for Spain, later converting it into a visitor visa through border crossings with the UK. For a lengthier stay, we resolved to unite in Marseille, affording us eligibility for a partner visa.

The bureaucratic ordeal of marrying in France is quite cumbersome in the present day. The constraints imposed upon marriage vary by the city council of the betrothal. The principal prerequisite is to officiate the ceremony in the town hall of one’s official residence, or that of one’s parents. In view of this, we chose Marseille as the optimal location for our nuptials.

However, proving our residency in Marseille necessitated much exertion. We were obliged to establish official residence in the city, precluding short-term lodging as a viable option. We had to procure a long-term apartment, a tedious process we explain in the following section.

Finally, it should be noted that a gratuity enrolment in the French healthcare system, also referred to as Caisse Primaire d’Allocation Maladie, is awarded to all those residing in France for an extended period. It permits the beneficiaries to receive a refund of up to 70% on their medical expenses in most instances. Nonetheless, the process of acquiring it is, to put it mildly, chaotic. The regulations seem to be altered every other year, and the public servants’ information is inconsistent. As daunting as it may seem, we made headway when we decided to handle the situation by persistently harassing the officials on the phone. We had initially believed that our situation was an unfortunate exception, but we later discovered that several of our acquaintances had encountered similar experiences.

Finding an apartment

In the bustling city of Marseille, many French families seek refuge in search of a more comfortable life. However, this surge in demand for accommodation has led to a highly competitive real estate market that is unfavourable for rental seekers. The most desirable properties are snapped up quickly, leaving many prospective tenants to compete against a sea of applicants from various backgrounds.

In Marseille, one can either rent from a real estate agency or directly from the property owners. Though these two methods differ in several aspects, they share some common requirements. Potential tenants must provide the usual identification documents, such as an ID card or passport, and demonstrate their ability to pay rent sustainably. This often proves to be a daunting task for newcomers to the country who may struggle to meet the strict financial criteria, such as having a long-term employment contract and a salary at least three times higher than the rent. Even, when those conditions were met, you would need to provide French payslips or tax invoices, items you might not possess if you had not been in France for while.

Our experience with real estate agencies in Marseille left much to be desired. We encountered frequent cancellations of appointments mere hours before the scheduled meeting, and the required documentation was often difficult to provide. Despite our solid financial situation, we were repeatedly turned down.

Determined to find a solution, we turned to directly contacting property owners. Unfortunately, such offers are scarce and are often posted by scammers looking to steal personal information. To avoid such traps, it is best to meet the landlord in person. We were fortunate enough to find our dream apartment through a marketplace for individuals called leboncoin.fr . Though sifting through the numerous offers posted by older users was a bit challenging, we eventually secured a beautiful apartment in a quiet neighbourhood between the city center and the seaside. To secure the deal, we agreed to pay three months’ rent in advance after some negotiations.

To facilitate the application process, some mechanisms can be helpful. Dossierfacile.fr is a government-run platform that improves the legitimacy of your application by reviewing each document uploaded by a public officer. Additionally, visale.fr offers the option for those with weaker applications to use public services as guarantors, but this system is often rejected by most real estate agencies and may be overlooked by property owners as it demande to be accustomed to using online services.

Finding a job

Luckily, my profession in IT has granted me the privilege of securing employment with ease, wherever I roam. Nevertheless, fellow migrants have attested that seeking occupation in Marseille does not pose a great challenge. To augment the likelihood of success, refreshing one’s LinkedIn profile is imperative. A proper portrait and an up-to-date curriculum vitae do make a difference. Opportunities may be discovered online or by communicating directly with the establishments.

Yet, there exist certain obstacles that must be surmounted. In general, the wages in France are comparatively low when juxtaposed with the cost of living. However, this discrepancy is compensated by a generous allotment of holidays. Additionally, particularly in Marseille, the style of work is rather relaxed.

It is prudent to prepare the following documents to facilitate the recruitment process: your bank account number, your French tax identification number, which may be obtained from impots.gouv.fr , and your healthcare serial.

Living costs

In the fair country of France, where we presently reside, one cannot deny that the cost of living is steep, particularly in light of recent events. The tensions between Russia and Ukraine have given rise to a surge in prices that has affected even the humble household of my companion and me, who dwell in the coastal town of Marseille.

For our sustenance, we rely mainly on the fruits and vegetables of the land, as we eschew the consumption of meat and fish. Despite our preference for organic fare, we spend between 500 and 600 euros per month on food, as we prepare most of our meals at home. Should we choose to dine out at a typical Mediterranean restaurant in our city, we would expect to pay around 30 euros per person. However, we have found that we can procure a similar menu at a lower cost in the neighboring towns.

As for our dwelling, we inhabit a cozy studio that spans approximately 25 square meters. Our monthly rent, which includes water and waste collection, amounts to 550 euros. In addition, we pay a meager 10 euros per month for insurance. Our abode is advantageously situated amidst a bustling commercial district, with several bus routes intersecting nearby. Moreover, the sandy shores of the Mediterranean are a mere thirty seconds’ walk from our doorstep. Comparable lodgings may be found throughout Marseille for a similar price.

Our monthly electricity bill comes to a modest sum of 30 euros, owing in part to our frugal use of energy. In winter, for instance, we do not employ the heater. For our internet access, we have subscribed to a package that combines fiber optics and 4G/5G connectivity, which costs us 40 euros per month. However, one should note that the telecommunications market is ever-changing, and one may find that a mere smartphone data plan suffices for one’s needs.

When it comes to transportation, we have opted for a public transport pass that grants us unlimited access to buses, subways, trams, rental bicycles, and local trains. The cost of our yearly subscription was 480 euros, with half of the sum being borne by our employer, as is customary in France. I would caution against using a personal vehicle in Marseille, as fuel and tolls are dear, and parking is scarce in the city center. The municipal authorities have also implemented measures to curtail air pollution by restricting the entry of certain types of cars into the city.

Fitting in with the locals

In the bustling metropolis of Marseille, one cannot help but be struck by the cordiality and open-heartedness of its denizens. They possess an innate ability to strike up a conversation with a stranger, disregarding any linguistic barriers that may be present. Furthermore, the city is a veritable melting pot of cultures, and the sight of foreigners is nothing out of the ordinary. In all our time here, Mina and I have never encountered any unpleasantness at the hands of the locals. On the contrary, they are wont to offer their aid freely to any who may appear to be in need. It is true, however, that one must be wary of pickpockets and thieves, as is the case throughout France. Certain areas ought to be avoided, but on the whole, the city is a safe haven for those who traverse its streets.

Weather of Marseille

As we arrived in Marseille, one of the first things that struck us was the abundance of sunshine. The city basks in a dry and warm climate for most of the year, with mild winters that rarely dip below freezing, and hot summers that invite a refreshing dip in the Mediterranean Sea. However, on occasion, a blustery wind known as Le Mistral can blow fiercely for several days at a time, making it more comfortable to seek refuge indoors until it passes.

Food

In Marseille, the most renowned delicacy is undoubtedly La Bouillabaisse, a rich fish soup served with an exquisite garlic-infused aïoli sauce. It originated as a humble dish prepared by fishermen to avoid letting any unsold catch go to waste. However, it has since evolved into a sought-after specialty that can be enjoyed in restaurants popular among tourists, albeit at a premium price.

Yet, Marseille’s culinary offerings extend far beyond its famous fish soup. The locals’ preference for pizza is evident throughout the city, where the craft of pizza-making has reached new heights thanks to Italian and Turkish influences that impart unique and delightful flavors. It is not uncommon to spot pizza deliverymen zipping down to the beach to serve sunbathers enjoying their apéro time.

In addition, the city boasts a wide range of North African and Middle Eastern restaurants that are often unassuming in appearance but offer exotic and flavorful dishes that we found to be quite satisfying.

But the gastronomic adventure does not stop there. Marseille offers an array of foreign cuisine, such as Asian and South American, to cater to all palates and preferences. One can expect generous portions as the people of the South of France value both quality and quantity.

As for beverages, we discovered exceptional coffee at specialized shops in the Southeast, which contrasted with the watery brews we had encountered elsewhere in the country.

Vegetarian friendly:

As it is the case throughout much of France, vegetarianism is not given much attention, as the French take great pride in their cuisine, which prominently features meat. Nonetheless, in the cosmopolitan city of Marseille, vegetarianism is somewhat more accepted. Still, when it comes to dining out, vegetarian options are usually limited and less complex than the other offerings on the menu.

Our recommendations

Restaurants	Description
Les Frères	Algerian restaurant
Ramen Go	Chinese restaurant
Istanbul Sultan Kebab	Typical Turkish kebab shop with good indoor dining corner
Grand Bar des Goudes	Typical Marseille’s cuisine
Péron	French Mediterranean cuisine
Café Noailles	Excellent vintage café
Ben Mouture	Delicious third wave café

5 memorable places

Calanques de Marseille	A series of stunning limestone cliffs, fjords, and turquoise coves that stretch along the city’s coastline, offering a paradise for nature lovers and hikers
Côte Bleue	A breathtaking stretch of coastline that boasts crystal clear waters, charming fishing villages, and hidden beaches, making it a perfect spot for relaxation and outdoor activities
Notre-Dame de la Garde	A stunning basilica that sits atop a hill overlooking the city, providing panoramic views and serving as a symbol of Marseille’s cultural and religious heritage
Le Corbusier’s Unité d’Habitation	The first building of its kind that set the standards for modern architecture
GinKgo	A charming and cozy bed and breakfast that offers a unique and personalized experience to its guests, with a focus on sustainable and eco-friendly practices, and where we planted a tree in the garden to symbolize our marriage