Italy

Travel Story

Eagerly anticipating our visit to Italy as part of our Eurasian crossing , we were ready to delve into its rich gastronomic offerings, and it did not disappoint. The allure of natural hot springs unexpectedly extended our stay, providing a delightful and relaxing experience along the way.

Our cycling route, while not exactly our initial plan, turned out to be the best compromise. We aimed to maximize our exploration of Italy within the constraints of Mina’s Schengen visa validity. Although it altered our course, the journey surpassed our expectations.

However, a few unchecked items on our to-do list, like exploring Sardinia, Sicily, and the Dolomites, beckon us back. These missed opportunities create the perfect motivation for a return trip, ensuring we complete our bucket list of must-visit places in Italy.

Ciao Ciao!

Overall feel

What we appreciate

• Laid-back atmosphere
• Friendly (and romantic!) people
• Strong bicycle culture
• A profound sense of ancient history

What we dislike

• Overcrowding with tourists at the most frequented destinations.

In details

Stats

• Way of travelling: Cycling
• Starting date: September 5, 2023 – (Second entry: October 25, 2023)
• Duration: 52 days – (35 days + 17 days)
• Distance: 1,973 km – (1,215 km + 758 km)

Crossing the border

We crossed the Italian border 4 times at the following places:

• The Rio San Luigi
• Salerno (ferry)
• Civitavecchia (ferry)
• Pesek

Passport checks were only required when entering and leaving Italy via ferry, and the process was straightforward.

Fab 🇫🇷

As a French national, you can of course stay as long as you want in Italy.

Mina 🇯🇵

Mina had a partner visa which allowed her to stay inside the Schengen area for one year.

Otherwise, Japanese passports’ holders can stay 90 days in 6 months inside the Schengen area.

Road condition

We traced the Via Francigena to Rome and then journeyed to the Salerno region, where we caught a ferry to Tunisia. Upon returning to Italy through the port of Civitavecchia, we traversed the country from west to east via the Passo dei Mandrioli, making our way down to Ravenna. Continuing our pedal-powered adventure, we followed the Adriatic coastline until we reached the Slovenian border near Trieste.

In Italy, drivers demonstrate remarkable consideration for cyclists and motorcyclists, consistently allowing ample space on the right for the two-wheelers to navigate freely. Even amidst the bustling traffic of Naples, motorists made thoughtful maneuvers to accommodate us.

Furthermore, the extensive cycleways resembled miniature highways for micromobility. These well-marked and well-maintained paths seamlessly connected cities, offering a smooth and safe journey over long distances.

Yet, the experience was less than ideal. The asphalt roads consistently exhibited poor conditions. Our assessment pointed towards the likelihood of the issue being tied to the brief cooling time of freshly laid tar after recent renovations—a observation we made while passing through several road construction sites.

Accommodations

We opted for room rentals only twice—once during the peak season and once during the off-peak season. The staggering difference in prices was notable, with a remarkable ratio of one to ten. Our recommendation: secure reservations in advance when visiting Italy during the high season, as there tends to be a surge in demand. Conversely, outside this specific timeframe, there’s ample vacancy.

On another note, the campgrounds we encountered lacked affordable options catering specifically to bicycle tourers. In most instances, we found ourselves paying the same rates as if we were traveling with a campervan.

Freedom camping

Until we reached Genoa, finding a suitable spot to pitch our tent posed a significant challenge. The coastline was brimming with seasonal accommodations and beach resorts, leaving little room for impromptu stays. In the mountains, locating an unfenced field proved equally demanding. In hindsight, we realized we might have discovered more opportunities by directly approaching the locals.

On a positive note, the best spots turned out to be what the locals referred to as “spiaggia libera” or public beaches. These were consistently recommended by the locals whenever we inquired and showers could be found there at times.

In general, the locals were quite accommodating to freedom campers, and encounters with police patrols were infrequent.

Facilities

Great overall! Cycling through Italy is a piece of cake.

Italy, as we pedaled through its landscapes, pleasantly surprised us with the abundance of amenities catering to bicycle travelers. The convenience of numerous supermarkets along the way eliminated the need to carry food over long distances. Moreover, access to water was consistently available, with cemeteries often featuring taps outside near the entrance, accessible even during closing hours. Securing a Wi-Fi connection was a breeze, whether at petrol stations or supermarkets. While public toilets were somewhat scarce, the generosity of petrol stations and cafes providing restroom facilities was a welcome relief. Additionally, the thoughtful provision of free bike stations near cycle paths, equipped with power plugs for e-bikes, added an extra layer of cyclist-friendly infrastructure throughout our journey.

A notable drawback emerged during our journey. While we were accustomed to purchasing stamps from tobacco shops, in Italy, we strongly advise against it. It’s better to head directly to the nearest post office. Unfortunately, certain businesses engage in dubious practices, selling stamps that are purportedly international but lack proper service. This means your postcard may never reach its intended destination. Surprisingly, the post office failed to caution us about these deceptive stamps, allowing us to send our letter without any warning.

3 Memorable Hot Springs

Capturing the essence of Italy without highlighting the natural hot springs, or “terme,” is quite a challenge. These ancient wonders, pioneered by the Romans, were ingeniously crafted to cater to the citizens of bygone eras. Integral to the country’s culture, they continue to be cherished and utilized today. Below, we share a list of the rejuvenating hot springs we were fortunate enough to explore and indulge in:

• Bagni San Filippo : Our absolute favorite! Undoubtedly bustling, yet incredibly relaxing. This gem boasts two locations: the first is the official tourist spot nestled in the village center, easily reached from the main road with a nominal entrance fee of two euros. The second, an abandoned facility lovingly maintained by local volunteers, operates on a donation basis. A bit of a hidden treasure, discovering this spot requires connecting with the locals to unveil its exact location. It’s the haven where we savored a full day of relaxation, camping overnight in its tranquil surroundings.
• Viterbo : A freely accessible public hot spring, always buzzing with activity, even after nightfall, as both locals and visitors come together to unwind in its rejuvenating waters. The temperature is scalding near the source, yet ingenious basin designs cater to various preferences by offering cooling options at different temperatures. Complete with a spacious car park and a charming picnic spot nearby, it’s a perfect destination for a shared, relaxing soak.
• Saturnia : The renowned free terme in Italy, embodying the classic Roman hot spring archetype with its picturesque landscape and tiered basins. Although our visit was enjoyable, we opted for a shorter stay compared to other locations we’ve highlighted. The popularity of this spot brought in a crowd, yet not overwhelmingly so, allowing for a decent spot to unwind. However, it fell slightly below our expectations due to the water temperature peaking at 40°C, and we observed an abundance of red bugs in the water. While we didn’t perceive them as harmful, we erred on the side of caution, limiting our time in the bath.

Communication with the locals

Great experience! Italians are genuinely friendly and sociable. They readily initiate conversations and seem to relish interacting with touring individuals.

Many locals exhibit proficiency in multiple foreign languages, such as English, French, German, Spanish, and Arabic. This extended language diversity was reminiscent of our encounters in Marseille, but across an entire country.

Moreover, the Italian language, being a close cousin to French, made any language guesswork effortless for us.

Food

Our culinary journey primarily unfolded in cafes rather than restaurants, where we indulged in shakerato (iced coffee) during the summer and classic espresso on other occasions. Italian coffee, with its nostalgic flavor, resonates with me as it closely resembles the brew from my home country. A special recommendation for Naples: consider trying the “flipped coffee,” a brew crafted inside a napoletana, traditional espresso maker.

Street food, where the Italians truly excel, played a significant role in our gastronomic exploration. Pizzas, focaccias, calzones, paninis, and more—each bite was a delightful experience.

For those venturing into restaurants, be mindful of implicit fees; cutlery and table water are systematically charged separately from your order.

On the occasions we decided to prepare our own meals, we found rubbing alcohol for our camping stove and excellent produce at supermarkets. The Campania region, in particular, captivated us with its delectable offerings, including delicious mozzarella di bufala and bocconcini cheese!

Regrettably, our quest for a good risotto remained unfulfilled. It stands as our sole culinary lament.

Vegetarian friendly:

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

The local cuisine is remarkably accommodating for vegetarians, featuring a plethora of options crafted from fresh, local produce. Regardless of your location, you’ll consistently find something delectable that aligns with the traditional local diet.

What we eat:

• Rice
• Tomatoes
• Peaches
• Mozzarela and bocconcini
• Pizze
• Olive oil
• Italian cookies
• Coffee

⭐ Fab's favourite:

La Focaccina di Serafina, Roma: the best focacce in world for a really low price.

⭐ Mina's favourite:

Sorpassino: Dessert made of granite, whip cream and rum. Only found at Il Sorpasso, Roma .

5 memorable places

Pisa	Posing for the classic tourist snapshot near the globally renowned leaning tower turned out to be way more entertaining than we had anticipated.
Roma	Describing Rome is an impossible task. Similar to Hannibal the Conqueror standing before the gates of this historic city, we found ourselves in awe, rendered speechless by its majestic grandeur.
Vesuvio	Majestic volcano! Although still active, we didn’t reach its summit but lingered on its slopes. The surrounding areas, including Naples, offered a plethora of captivating sights and exploration opportunities.
Argine Degli Angeli	Scenic cycling path across a lake, offering a dream-like panorama.
Venice	Despite its popularity among tourists, it’s the type of place that appears and feels even more impressive in person. Just strolling in the streets and admire the shop windows was a lot of fun.