France

Travel Story

This marks the thrilling kick-off to our Eurasian escapade! While Portugal claims the official starting point, it all began with pedal power in vibrant Marseille. Choosing a route less ordinary through France, we couldn’t resist checking off some bucket list items, and the enchanting detour to Canal du Midi was an absolute gem. Cycling through France turned into a joyous adventure, filled with excitement and unforgettable moments, and we soaked up the last precious moments with friends and family before steering our tandem eastward.

Overall feel

What we appreciate

• Well-maintained roads, and well-marked cycle routes
• Food! Affordable organic produce and fresh ingredients in general
• A strong bicycle culture
• Easy freedom camping
• Cashless country

What we dislike

• France is busy in summer, expect a bit of crowd on the roads, on the cycle ways and inside the campsites

In details

Stats

• Way of travelling: Cycling
• Starting date: April 30, 2023 – (Second entry: July 31, 2023)
• Duration: 42 days – (6 days + 36 days)
• Distance: 1,844 km – (399 km + 1,445 km)

Crossing the border

We crossed the French border 3 times at the following places:

• The Col de Panissars
• The Bidasoa
• The Rio San Luigi

We passed the border without encountering any police officers.

Fab 🇫🇷

As a French national, you can of course stay as long as you want in France.

Mina 🇯🇵

Mina had a partner visa which allowed her to stay inside the Schengen area for one year.

Otherwise, Japanese passports’ holders can stay 90 days in 6 months inside the Schengen area.

Road condition

Our journey unfolded in two parts: the first from our former Marseille apartment to the Spanish border near Le Perthus, tracing the Mediterranean Coast, and the second from Hendaye to the Italian border near Menton, following a custom route.

Cycling in France proves enjoyable overall, thanks to well-maintained roads and a comprehensive cycle route network, albeit occasionally narrow. Unlike some European countries, French drivers may not consistently provide ample space on their right side for safe cycling, occasionally maneuvering impatiently with a few unpleasant comments. While we often chose to ignore such encounters, responding in kind is a culturally accepted option.

On a positive note, we found solace in official cycle routes, offering serene rides through charming villages and picturesque nature. Shared by a diverse community of cyclists, these routes became a source of valuable advice and camaraderie along the way.

A commented recap of our itinerary

Part I

• Marseille ~ Col de Panissars, following the Mediterranean Sea: The segment in Camargue was flat but windy.

Part II

• Hendaye ~ Bordeaux, following the Vélodyssée: Easy ride. Flat and shaded with a lot of facilites. Beware of the other cyclists who might ride recklessly and the young ones.
• Bordeaux ~ Agde, following the Canal Entre Deux Mers: Easy as well, mainly flat and less busy than the Vélodyssée.
• Agde ~ Sault via Avignon: Easy until Carpentras and then a bit hilly but scenic.
• Sault ~ Saint-Raphael via Le Verdon: Mountainside, near the French Alps. Picturesque landscape. Sometimes a bit steep.
• Saint-Raphael ~ The Rio San Luigi, Menton, following the coast: Ups and downs but beautiful. We avoided crossing Monaco though.

Accommodations

Navigating France in the height of summer presented a challenge in securing affordable accommodations, as booking well in advance proved nearly essential. The sole occasion we opted for paid lodging was at an official campsite, where securing a tent spot required arriving near office opening hours. Fortunately, our chosen campsite turned out to be a peaceful exception, given that they typically host lively events with loud music and fireworks until 5:00 AM each night – an amusing spectacle for most vacationers but suboptimal for weary tourers after a long day on the road. Additionally, the vast majority of the campsites we found on our way did not offer a specific pricing for hikers and cyclists that only need a narrower surface for their tents. Often, the lowest fare would be for a couple travelling by car.

Freedom camping

Freedom camping in France is a breeze! Abundant spots away from patrol sights make pitching your tent hassle-free. Generally, locals are indifferent or even welcoming toward freedom campers. However, exercise caution and steer clear of areas explicitly marked with no freedom camping signs, as the police may conduct checks on suspicious individuals. While we encountered this a few times, the police were friendly and simply provided a reminder of the regulations. Of course, we took no chances and promptly relocated to a more secluded spot.

Facilities

Great overall! Navigating France by bicycle is a breeze.

You’ll find abundant drinking water sources, numerous free Wi-Fi access points (keep an eye out for Decathlon and i-sites), and well-placed picnic spots.

While bike shops are conveniently located, we occasionally found the service provided by bike mechanics falling short of our expectations.

On the bright side, credit/debit cards are universally accepted without any conditions.

When it comes to restrooms, although public toilets are plentiful, they often leave something to be desired in terms of hygiene.

Communication with the locals

It’s a bit challenging to provide a partial opinion, given that we had spent more than a year in France before embarking on our cycling journey. By now, we are both accustomed to the culture, and Mina has made significant progress with the language. For someone unfamiliar with France, it might seem that people appear unwelcoming, but it’s more of a facade. Just remember to say “bonjour” and “bon appétit” when you sense uncomfortable stares; it can truly make a positive difference in your first impression!

Food

Our upgraded camping stove elevated our cooking experience, thanks to the accessibility of affordable rubbing alcohol in most supermarkets.

Following our travels in Spain and Portugal, we were pleasantly surprised to find that French produce and products were slightly more budget-friendly this year. We suspect this might be attributed to the abrupt surge in petrol prices that significantly elevated the costs of imported goods. Fortunately, this phenomenon appeared to be mitigated in France, thanks to its well-developed local food industry. This summer, we indulged in an abundance of delicious seasonal veggies and fruits at reasonable prices, including fresh organic melons for a mere 1.5€ per kilogram.

While we opted not to visit any cafés, anticipating that the French blends might not suit our tastes, we thoroughly enjoyed lunches at a famous franchised bistro in Bordeaux and a more humble one in the village of Céreste. Both managed to satisfy our taste buds and satiate our hunger. In France, wherever you choose to dine, it’s challenging to make the wrong choice.

Vegetarian friendly:

⭐⭐⭐⭐☆

As mentioned earlier, traditional French cuisine isn’t typically known for being vegetarian-friendly. Nevertheless, we observed a growing popularity of vegetarian options, with many restaurants now offering well-considered choices. Additionally, the outstanding quality and variety of locally produced fruits and vegetables add an enjoyable dimension to shopping at the numerous marketplaces and grocery stores.

What we eat:

• Camargue rice
• Ancient tomatoes
• Cheese!
• Beans
• Melons
• Olive oil
• Madeleines

⭐ Fab's favourite:

L’Auberge de Carluc, Céreste: fantastic French bistrot food with vegetarian options, lovely interior.

⭐ Mina's favourite:

Madeleines Armor Délices, available in many supermarkets.

5 memorable places

La Vélodyssée	Popular cycle route that runs along the Western coast of France, scenic and easy to ride.
Canal Entre Deux Mers	Historic waterway in southwestern France connecting the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea, offering a picturesque route lined with charming towns and scenic landscapes.
Le Ventoux	Legendary climb Often featured in the Tour de France
Les Gorges du Verdon	Breathtaking natural marvel, where turquoise waters carve through dramatic limestone cliffs
Les Calanques Rouges	Striking red cliffs that plunge into the azure waters of the Mediterranean Sea along the French coastline